Can we talk about the abattoir? What are the benefits of slaughtering on the premises?
Well first of all, in an abattoir like ours we can choose the quality that goes into the shop. I mean if I was in a position where I relied on people to just send it in I would be getting some cattle and sheep which I wouldn’t normally buy. Say if we go on to a farm and they have six cattle there, there might be two that don’t suit us, so I’ll say that we’ll have the four. So we go to the farm to select the animals that we want. That’s what you have to do. And then we pay for them on the dead weight price. Sheep – they usually come to the market here every Friday. Those are usually off customers or those that we know who have got the right type of lamb for us. People say ‘Oh you had the dearest lambs again today – you only want the best!’ so people do notice. There’s one farm, Caebetran, that is over 1000ft up – or over – and he does superior lambs – Texels. And we have one farmer that does only Hereford cattle. But of course Herefords are really not commercially viable if the truth be known because these continental cattle have come along with a bigger yield of meat. (Gaynor adds that you can’t beat the Hereford meat!) The trouble is tastes have altered and the Hereford does carry more fat. I had one Hereford last week and also a Limousin cross. The Hereford was very nice but it was shot with marbling and of course people look at that.
What causes the marbling?
It’s the breed and this is what you don’t get with the continental. We have become so obsessed with lean meat that is why the continentals have become so popular. And of course the cattle come on quicker. They will get to weight quicker than a Hereford but, as one farmer said to me, they eat more as well. It takes longer for the Hereford to mature but perhaps it doesn’t cost as much to feed them. You do notice it over the loin; the sirloin. If you have a sirloin off a Limousin it will be big but with a Hereford it will be narrow.
What do you think has caused the decline in local abattoirs?
Cost! And people are frightened out of it. Bureaucracy has played a big part. In 1995, in the wake of the BSE scandal, two pieces of legislation were put in place; the Meat Hygiene Rules and Regulations and the Meat Hygiene Service. Officers and vets were appointed to carry out tests on livestock and meat to ensure welfare standards and to prevent BSE.
How did the new rules and regulations affect the business Bryan?
Yes before this, local authorities inspected the meat but now it is local vets. Ours comes from Cardiff. Nearly all the vets are Polish. They phased out the meat inspectors in favour of vets but really they are only glorified meat inspectors. It came out that you had to have a vet pre and post slaughter. So in other words a vet looked at them to see if they are fit to kill to start. But that came in even when the local authority was doing it. I used to have to get my vet from Brecon and he would look at them. Then it changed and I couldn’t choose my vet and they fiddled about with it – and they’re still fiddling about with it.
If they were to charge full cost meat inspection then the business would close as the cost would be phenomenal and we couldn’t afford it. We get what they call ‘full cost recovery’ so it’s not quite as bad (around £300 month). That is to pay the vet to come out (which is subsidised) every day that we slaughter. You can’t start without him. There are lots of hidden expenses that you don’t expect. For instance, he wanted plastic on the walls even though they are scrubbable surfaces. Stupid things like sealing the doors. On a hot day as you can imagine it generates quite a bit of heat (especially with pigs) but we are not allowed to kill with the door open in case a fly comes in. Obviously they haven’t got flies in Poland or Spain! There was a fly in a cobweb that they complained about. And they complained about the cat walking around. Chris offered to buy the cat some wellies for the slaughterhouse.
We almost got closed down in around 1997. A chap came round and he was a cocky little devil. He was representing the chief vet in Cardiff, Mr Thomas. Anyway this little chap came along – as they do with a clipboard – and said ‘Well, you can forget this place after April’. This was around the time of new EEC regulations coming in. He said ‘You’ve got plenty of room down the bottom – just build a new one or send in some plans and see if they get passed.’ So I employed a firm and the estimated cost was at least 80k. So we submitted the plans to them and every month I would get a bill for £1,100 until eventually I gave up.
April came and went and we were still slaughtering until one Monday we received a call from Mr Thomas on the phone and told us that the plans were not feasible. I said ‘That’s what I thought but one of your lieutenants said that’s what I would have to do or else I would get closed down.’ He said ‘Listen, would you be willing to spend 20k and we’ll give you 3 years?’ He was a chap that saved the day which you don’t get very often. He was obviously on the side of the small abattoir people. I said ‘Thank you very much’. He advised that we needed to extensively refurbish, including bringing the lairage (where the animals stand) up to date and and installing an electric hoist instead of the old rope one. So we went ahead and did it and we never looked back, because it would have broken the tradition if we had to close the abattoir.
Where are the nearest abattoirs?
There is one in Raglan (the other side of Abergavenny) and one in Machynlleth. Every town used to have its own abattoir and they have decimated it really. I suppose those high up would like to see them closed down. Rather like the milk. We used to have 3 different milk suppliers in the town and it’s all gone. Now we are all drinking the same milk driven for miles and miles. That’s what they would like to see with the meat – nobody really standing out.
Can you say a bit about how the abattoir works for someone who has no idea?
We slaughter one day a week on a Friday. The animals are brought in by trailer behind a vehicle, unloaded and usually put on a bed of straw. They are there overnight. We are not allowed to keep cattle overnight so they need to come in on the day but sheep and pigs can stay. You don’t feed them but there is water for them. And then they are driven into the stunning pen and stunned with a gun. The sheep and pigs are stunned electrically with tongs and cattle with a gun.
With the cattle, they are obviously restrained with a yolk to come down over their head and they go into a pen. Then they are processed. Pigs are taken up on a hoist and then they are bled and go along a rail and drop down into a tank which is an automatic process. A pig de-hairer and scalder all in one. They go in; you shut the lid, press the button and wait 3 minutes. Usually all the hair is off providing the water is not too hot. It’s important that it doesn’t overheat otherwise it will scald the hair on and there will be a terrible job to get it off – a lot of knife work involved. And then they are gutted and that’s it. Then the meat inspector inspects them and if they are ok he puts a stamp on them that they are fit to eat.
How long do you hang the meat for?
Beef is usually hung for two weeks – maybe three – but I don’t like hanging it too long. Myself I don’t like a strong taste of hung meat really. Pigs, you wouldn’t hang too long. I think it is better if it does go into the second week and of course lamb you don’t hang.
What age are the animals when they come in for slaughter?
Pigs usually 16-18 weeks, with lamb we had one this week that was born before Christmas but that was very early, but usually the new season lamb starts around Easter which is the tradition. On the other hand you get people asking for something more mature (over 12 months) and we call it hogget. So it’s lamb, hogget and mutton (which became very trendy). Mutton is only to a limited audience but I suppose if we were in London we would sell more. And Smokies which are of course illegal. Smokies are old lamb which is smoked with the skin on. We also get the Ghurkas coming in for pigs. They like goat too for their curries.
Can you tell me about the importance of grass-fed meat?
Yes, but of course it is limited as you know. I would personally prefer completely grass-fed beef but we won’t be getting that until about June. Before then they are grain finished – grain, silage or hay. Really it’s a job to beat the grass fed beef. It’s yellower in colour. It is nice and natural. In the US, there is an American Grassfed Association, dedicated to promoting 100% grass-fed meat. Do you think that in the future, it would be possible for more Welsh farmers to transition to 100% grass-fed? How realistic is a Welsh Grassfed Association?
I think they would need some grain finishing to get them in condition. Of course they could feed silage but I’m not keen on that (a mixture of hay etc.) Grain finishing is salvation in times when there is just not the weather to keep them out.
What do you think of organically raised meat?
I think it’s overrated. How do you really know that it is 100% organic and from what I have seen of the samples, some of them are not finished. They are bare if you like. It sounds wonderful but I think there is an element of doubt. I suppose you have to put your faith in it because they are regulated. The organic meat used to have to be slaughtered on a different day to non-organic. They are a little more lenient now in that you can slaughter and have them in the same fridge providing the meat is clearly stamped. And of course there is a market for it. We very rarely get people asking for organic meat but when they do, I say that it is as close to organic as they can get. They are locally raised on the hills and the animals are not factory farmed and growing up on a few foot of concrete.
How hard is it to currently make a living out of farming?
The farmers are getting a good return now. If we look back to an ox roast we had for the coronation this should tell you something about prices. It was a fantastic Hereford beast – just over 700 weight and it was £11 a hundred weight (live weight), so the beast was roughly £80. You would pay that for a lamb now. It was a great event and we had to slaughter it in a particular way (I didn’t have to cut the H-bone or anything like that) as the shaft had to go straight through from the front to the back. A firm came up from Oxford and they put it on the spit. They did a similar event in Cardiff with Aberdeen Angus beef, but they told us that the Hereford beef was superior!